All Souls’ Day
Perebor-funeral ornament was the starting point and inspiration for „All Souls’ Day” collection was perebor-ornament attached to garments from Włodawa area as a symbol of grief after the closest ones who passed away. What fascinates the most is the purity of the form and self-sufficiency of the perebor-ornament demonstrated in this precise style and form. There’s no playing with colours, only the ornament which needs to defend itself.
The Atmosphere of Mysticism
“All Souls’ Day” collection has been shrouded in mystery and mysticism of the secrecy relating to November famous polish drama „Dziady”. Decorative ornaments of the clothing are hidden in a shirt’s clasps and in dresses’ box pleats. Not clearly visible at first glance, reveal their beauty with each and every move.
The main inspiration for headgears in each and every project were the headgears present in folk clothes from Bug district and Włodawa district. Those designs were inspired by „zawijka” which is a characteristic towel folded into three parts attached around the head and decorated with perebor-ornament, hood with the original hole at the front of the head, ‚kimbałka’ which is hoop placed on the head, through which hair were dragged and surrounded with an item called ‚okrajka’ which is a cap with drawstrings, decorated with perebor-ornament and cross-stitch embroidered.
Accessories
Accessory used in all designs is a jewellery made of glass beads which used to be a common substitute for real corals, which only a few women could afford to buy. They appear in all designs in various forms and each and every string of beads is finished with snap hooks attached to extensively/richly located loops which created the opportunity to multiple modifications of jewellery layouts.
Perebor as an Ornament
When it comes to folk clothing from Bug River areas and Włodawa areas perebor-ornament was used to be placed on the stand-up collars, yokes, shirt cuffs. In all designs the shirt has been reduced to places where ornaments occur. As a result the decorative part of each dress is respectively stand-up collar, collar, yokes decorated with perebor-ornaments.
Cotton and Linen
The “All Souls’ Day” collection was made of various weights of 100% linen and cotton looped fabrics.
Screen Printing and Printing
Prints in presented designs are used in both forms, not only the traditional one which involves woven on looms or cross-stitch embroidered (it was a technique which finally replaced weaving on traditional looms) but also in a modern version of print referring to manual printing which used to occur as a pattern on skirts. Silkscreen was made with the use of water-based paints which is penetrating each fibre of the fabric and breathing along with it (becoming breathable material along with the fibre). There has also been used a computer cross-stitch embroidery technique in order to personalize some of the designed elements with the brand’s logo.
“Forefathers’ Eve”
The silhouette presents a loose nod to tradition: a flat cap inspired by a hood, cotton sweatpants with a custom perebor print, and a linen shirt with hidden cross-stitch embroidery in the closure. The ensemble is completed with a jewelry chain attached to the pants, composed of glass beads.
“Little Soul”
The skirt-pants in the Little Soul project are inspired by the linen skirt of the Włodawa costume, where the back, unlike the front, was pleated and featured an ornament at the bottom that differed from the front. The headwear refers to the zawijka – a distinctive towel folded into three parts and tied around the head, finished with perebor. The drawings on the blouse in the Little Soul project, depicting souls passing through the cemetery gate on All Souls’ Day to return to their family homes, are made using the screen printing method. The sweat skirt with a characteristic print is the only element in the collection that references the Krzczonów costume.
“Melancholy”
In the Melancholy project, the styling is reduced to the locations of the ornaments themselves. As a result, the dress is adorned with a stand-up collar, yokes, and cuffs decorated with perebor, fastened with glass beads. The ensemble is completed with personalized combat boots, sneakers, and knee-high socks, referencing contemporary and universal footwear. The headwear is inspired by the kimbałka.
“November”
In the November project, the styling is reduced to the locations of the ornaments themselves. As a result, the dress is adorned with a collar and cuffs decorated with perebor, fastened with glass beads. The ensemble is completed with personalized combat boots, sneakers, and knee-high socks, referencing contemporary and universal footwear. The headpiece is a cap inspired by the okrajka.
